It’s Sunday. I’m sitting in bed, with a cup of tea, a furry fluff ball of a cat at my feet, contemplating what the meaning of life is, now Fashion Month has passed. Yes, I said it. Twice a year (not including Men’s) social media is taken over by a flurry of street style photography, blog pieces and outfit inspo, “who was your favourite?” “did you see that jacket?!” circulating the office over the morning coffee. The magic of Fashion Month. Every city was in competition with each other, each showing a unique strength; a take on the essence of Fashion Design that is incomparable and exciting to say the least.
Where would we be without Celine? This season saw the reinterpretation of Philo’s love of the the trench coat, adapting it into the idea of a ‘the double trench’, using the starting point of draping and manipulation to develop a collection that optimised both style and utility. Celine is in no doubt THE designer of the cool girl aesthetic, and yet again proved her credibility for Spring/Summer 18, using the essence of freedom and happiness of the 80’s as the perfect personification for the stylistic attitude she so greatly created within this season’s collection. With the pure “muscle” as Philo states, of the Celine Atelier, and the beauty of the Celine image, Philo played homage to the true essence of what the Celine woman is and what she identifies as, taking the characterisation of individuality (combined with leather and feathers), to give way to a collection of garments that, yet again, pulled at the heart strings of every understated ‘it’ girl, to date.
Raf Simmons and Calvin Klein – a true match made in heaven, and this season really did fulfil it’s original public display of affection. In ode to the American Dream, and the not-so-dreamy American Horror, this season saw Simmons match both the dream-like cleanliness of the Calvin Klein image, with the essence of the Calvin Klein American routes, to create a collision of print, texture, personality… and theatrics. With an attraction to TV and films, Simmons combined the use of 50’s couture silhouettes from the American dream, with Andy Warhol’s Dennis Hopper print, to present a collection of juxtaposing light and darkness, of horror and beauty, of fashion and provocation.
It is no doubt that since Maria Grazia Chiuri took over the design generation at Christian Dior, that the influence of female artists has taken its thrown up on the Dior heritage, yet Chiuri has been seen to make it her mission to appeal to the millenial generation, pulling her take on 21st feminism, and updating it into a fashion-forward fantasy.. with a smidge of rebellion. With the influence of French-American artist Niki de Saint Phalle, Chiuri took her own personal influence of an awareness of the “woke” generation to stimulate a collection that welcomed interpretation, leaving a door open to the educated audience to understand the collection themselves. Gone are the days of the ‘New Look’, here are the days of intelligent rebellion, of mindfulness and millennial awareness.
Delicacy and femininity. Two very prominent characteristics that overtook the Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 18 collection, traits of the designer herself, who epitomizes feminine cool, whilst maintaining a vision of elegance and demure. This season, Beckham added the notion of comfort to her collection – gone are the days of stilettos and form-fitting silhouettes, here is the time for understated allure, in perfect hues of Spring/Summer romance and dream-like femininity. With dropped waist bands on trousers, mid-length dress blocks, clean lined lightweight outwear and free-flowing silk skirts, Beckham showed that Fashion does not necessarily need to be of trend and standing out, but can be about style and timelessness.
Images – vogue